In last week's episode we drank a few rieslings, shocked a few Germans, and proved that an Arizona Chardonnay has a life span longer than most cats. And *that's* what you missed in Riesel'd.
Today I'm seeing red. Wine that is....
According to Wikipedia, “Norton is a grape cultivar believed to be largely derived from Vitis aestivalis, and is grown in the Midwest, Mid-Atlantic States and northeastern Georgia. Norton was first cultivated in Richmond, Virginia and is the official grape of the State of Missouri[1] and is considered the cornerstone of the Missouri wine industry.[2] Although some believe that the Norton is a true native of North America, most experts suspect that it is a hybrid of one or more native varieties and one Vitis vinifera grape.”
According to Wikipedia, “Norton is a grape cultivar believed to be largely derived from Vitis aestivalis, and is grown in the Midwest, Mid-Atlantic States and northeastern Georgia. Norton was first cultivated in Richmond, Virginia and is the official grape of the State of Missouri[1] and is considered the cornerstone of the Missouri wine industry.[2] Although some believe that the Norton is a true native of North America, most experts suspect that it is a hybrid of one or more native varieties and one Vitis vinifera grape.”
There are its champions and its naysayers. And ironically while none of our ABWCP attendees had ever tried a Norton wine before, it was originally vinified by German settlers in late 1800s Missouri, where a Missouri Norton wine won a gold medal at the Vienna World’s Fair and Norton was proclaimed the “best red wine of all nations.”
Having worked at Horton Vineyards--the winery credited with returning the Norton varietal to its original VA birthplace—however, I had a bit of the girl next door syndrome. It was your oldest kindergarten friend, the one you formed the Loser's Club with and watched pick (and maybe learned a trick or two from) his nose behind the garden shed. It wasn't the stunning novelist with the B&W book jacket cover just nominated for the National Book Award. It's easy to sideline what you know. But sometimes the familiars do go on to greatness.
But first we had Gamay Noir from Michigan....
2005 Gamay Noir Reserve, Chateau Grand Traverse, Old Mission Peninsula/MI.
The dark brick red color was the first clue that this was not your average Beaujolais. Crushed wild berry basket in the nose, layered with pepper and spice, and wound-tight with fine tannins. It is the acidity that really defines this wine. While pleasant now, drinking any earlier would have made this wine neurotic instead of just high-strung. The alcohol at 13.5% is well integrated, and the long spicy finish provides a pleasing, Burgundy-like impression.
The next wine was a bit of a cheat, coming from Sonoma Valley, but it was such a cult classic that no one was hard-core enough to suggest pouring it down the sink on principle alone.
2005 Williams-Selyem Winery Pinot Noir Weir Vineyard Yorkville Highlands/CA
The first nose felt like a 300 level Adorno seminar: rich, deep and complex. Especially in comparison to the Gamay Reserve, the autumn smells just kept rolling out of the (much, much too small) glass. Nutmeg, Cinnamon, dry leaves crackling under your feet, hint of smoke from a wood/burning stove with warming glühwein. A velvet softness tinted the entire experience in the unfocused haze of a foreign film. I expected subtitles. At the beginning and end a cola-like sweetness suggested America, but otherwise it was a new Pinot experience for me. Perfectly, suppley ripe with a complexity that needed both food and bigger glasses (did I mention we needed bigger glasses?) to fully appreciate.
1997 Caitlins Selection, Callaghan Vinyards, Arizona.
50% merlot. .50% cabernet franc
At 14 years old, many of us were skeptical but this wine held multiple surprises not to mention inspiring the quote of the evening. The nose was jammy and laced with layers of licorice and cooked pepper. And the tannins and acidity provided a backbone straight and strong enough to hang your hat on. In the mouth, the depth and concentration really shone through, so that I wanted to chew instead of drink it. One person said this wine screamed for a roast, the next said F*** the roast, THIS is the roast, to which the next one said, this isn't the roast this is the stuff in the bottom of the pan left over AFTER the roast, the “lovely, sticky bits” which was, in all honesty, the perfect description for this intense, rich and concentrated medly.
1995 Zinfandel, Buena Suerte Vineyards, Arizona.
Brown on the rim with dulled brick red hues, it was clear this wine had seen its day. Cooked cauliflower in the nose with hints of onion, I couldn't shake memories of my mom's overcooked New England boiled dinner. There was still enough minerality and structure to suggest that this wine had once had its 15 minutes of fame. Moving on....
Brown on the rim with dulled brick red hues, it was clear this wine had seen its day. Cooked cauliflower in the nose with hints of onion, I couldn't shake memories of my mom's overcooked New England boiled dinner. There was still enough minerality and structure to suggest that this wine had once had its 15 minutes of fame. Moving on....
2009 Norton, Horton Vineyards, Gordonsville/VA
Deep purple in the glass, this was a big jump from the ripe Zinfandel. Inky with violet-black streaks this was a wine for Halloween. Its nose was as deep as its color: spice, plums, cherries, and a hint of dime-store candy sweetness. On the pallate it confirmed the nose and established a considerable length. I'm guessing that the traditional Pig Roast Horton sponsors each summer is just about as perfect of a pairing as you get.
2008 Norton, Locksley Reserve. Chrysalis Vineyards, Middlesburg/VA
With the largest single planting of Norton worldwide, Chrysalis Vineyard set the bar high. It didn't dissapoint. Owner Jennifer McCloud harnessed (or hog-tied!) the rich power and fruit of this grape into a single complex wine. With cherry, currants and a wonderfully balanced acidity, this really made the night. We spent a while trying to figure out exactly what sort of meal would best showcase its attributes. the jury is still out.
Both Nortons showed a brilliant, demanding authenticity. Tasting two very different styles side-by-side, I found myself agreeing with the 1843 assertions of it as the American Bordeaux. Unrefined, perhaps, but the building blocks of a world class wine are there.
2002 Wild Grape, Valiant Vineyards, Vermillion/South Dakota
Wild Grape takes deep and raw to new levels. The story of the grape, its origins, harvest and vinification is a post in and of itself. Today I will stick to what is in the glass. With black currents, elderberries, cherries and green vines, descriptions defy this wine. Someone suggested similarities to Chinato in its blend of herbs, wood bitter notes. I agree. This is not a friday night-crack-a-bottle-and-kick-back-it's-been-a-rough-week wine, this is a roll-on-the-floor-and-wrestle-with-your-rottweiler wine. You both will come out a bit bloody and bruised, but smiling.
Deep purple in the glass, this was a big jump from the ripe Zinfandel. Inky with violet-black streaks this was a wine for Halloween. Its nose was as deep as its color: spice, plums, cherries, and a hint of dime-store candy sweetness. On the pallate it confirmed the nose and established a considerable length. I'm guessing that the traditional Pig Roast Horton sponsors each summer is just about as perfect of a pairing as you get.
2008 Norton, Locksley Reserve. Chrysalis Vineyards, Middlesburg/VA
With the largest single planting of Norton worldwide, Chrysalis Vineyard set the bar high. It didn't dissapoint. Owner Jennifer McCloud harnessed (or hog-tied!) the rich power and fruit of this grape into a single complex wine. With cherry, currants and a wonderfully balanced acidity, this really made the night. We spent a while trying to figure out exactly what sort of meal would best showcase its attributes. the jury is still out.
Both Nortons showed a brilliant, demanding authenticity. Tasting two very different styles side-by-side, I found myself agreeing with the 1843 assertions of it as the American Bordeaux. Unrefined, perhaps, but the building blocks of a world class wine are there.
2002 Wild Grape, Valiant Vineyards, Vermillion/South Dakota
Wild Grape takes deep and raw to new levels. The story of the grape, its origins, harvest and vinification is a post in and of itself. Today I will stick to what is in the glass. With black currents, elderberries, cherries and green vines, descriptions defy this wine. Someone suggested similarities to Chinato in its blend of herbs, wood bitter notes. I agree. This is not a friday night-crack-a-bottle-and-kick-back-it's-been-a-rough-week wine, this is a roll-on-the-floor-and-wrestle-with-your-rottweiler wine. You both will come out a bit bloody and bruised, but smiling.
And in Part III we taste a spoonful of (aged) sugar with
1996 Norton Port and
2001Late Harvest Gewürtztraminer.
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